Wheezing my way into Prague

Even the eternal optimist in me has been forced to admit the reality....I have a cold.  A bad cold.  It is not the best way to start off a trip, but I'm determined not to let it get me down.

Luckily, I'm adept at sleeping on planes, so DFW to JFK was a breeze...and JFK to our connection in Helsinki...even better.  We flew on FinnAir...a first for me, but actually a great airline.  The seats were spacious and the food was good and we landed without emergency vehicles, what more could we ask for?

Of course, no trip on "we three" can get by without at least one embarassing blunder.....and since Aunt Joyce is not on this trip, that leaves the blunder up to me.  I usually manage to keep up the Lucille Ball antics by putting gas in a diesel engine...but since we aren't renting a car this trip I had to go way outside of the box to embarrass myself this time.

As I said, I have a cold....a really bad cold.  A cold that involves a deep and frequent cough.  My ribs hurt from coughing so much and so hard.  But the worst part about having such a bad cough is dealing with a problem that most of the people who read my blog can relate to.  Once you have had a child....and reach a certain age....the deep coughs can spasm your abdomen enough to cause another issue......yep...makes me pee a little at times.  Those times include when I'm walking!  So while in Helsinki, we were grabbing a quick bite to eat and I decided to go to the ladies room before we boarded.  About halfway to the ladies room I felt a cough attack coming on.  I DID NOT want to have any pee issues, so I was hurrying a bit....and the more I hurried the worse I needed to cough.  

I rushed into the bathroom, just as I could feel my throat start to contract...I knew I was about to cough like a crazy person, so I jerked open the door, ran into the stall, spun around while locking the door with one hand and pulling down my pants with the other.  I was proud of my ambidextrious abilities and feeling very self satisfied as I sat and started coughing....and of course, peeing.  Until I realized I was sitting.......ON MY PURSE!  My cute little bright red Baggalini bag!  Sitting on it meant that....well, yes....I was peeing on it!  OMG....some of you know I have issues with purses anyway...but now...really?  So I have to precariously grab my bag, hang it on the door of the stall, finish up ....then completely wash my bag in the bathroom sink.    Peeing on your purse makes a little leak when coughing seem like a minor incident!

Oh well, purse washed.....slightly damp boarding pass given to surly gate attendant with a smirk...and the flight from Helsinki to Prague was otherwise uneventful!

Prague was exactly as it should have been upon our arrival.  There was a fog, making everything look very cold-warish.  We are staying in old town, so the buildings and roads are all from centuries past.

Our hotel was built in the 14th century and has been wonderfully kept up.  We are in a "room" that is actually four rooms, a foyer, two full baths and a big room with beds, a sofa and three big chairs!  The ceiling is the most interesting part though, it is original and carved and dyed oak beams.  I am not sure the photo does it justice but its amazing.  The best part is it located in the heart of Old Town Prague, just blocks from Jewish Town, the Astrological Clock, the Charles Bridge and all things yummy and inviting!

Our first day was mostly spent just getting our bearings and an overview of the city.  We decided to live on the wild side and took an tour of the city in an antique BMW convertible.  The guide assured us he had a very strong heat....and he was not wrong.  We were toasty and he let us bring our street food finds along for an open air moving picnic.  So we ate potato dumplings with cabbage and bacon and roasted ham with rye as he told us about the city he obviously loves.!

This is why these two are so much fun to travel with.  Mom is game for anything and Cait never thinks she is too "cool" to do silly things with us!  I love these two!  One thing that continues to amaze, and somewhat embarrass us, is the fluency with which other cultures speak multiple languages.  Our guide, Evsen, apologized for his poor English skills, yet spoke very fluently and had only one year of English classes.  He did say his wife spent 5 years in London and made him practice a lot!  

The only thing we saw up close and personal today was the Jewish synagogue and cemetery from the WWII era.  The synagogue was plain and somber.....but inside the walls were inscribed with the names of the tens of thousands of Prague Jews who were killed in the ghettos and concentration camps.  You can hear stories, but to see wall after wall of inscribed names really helps you realize the numbers of people who died innocently.  

 I hope you can tell, in the photos, that the design on the wall, as you get closer and closer, is simply name after name of people who were lost during that time.

Part of the synagogue grounds is the cemetery that was used during that period.  They were allotted only a small area for burial, so as more and more died, there was soon no room for burial of the remains.  They were forced to bury bodies on top of one another and the result is a cemetery full of crowded and uprooted grave markers.......very surreal to see.

They are in various stages of upheaval and dissaray because of the top soil that was carried in by hand to try to build up the cemetery enough to increase the layers of bodies.  The result is that the cemetery is almost a full story above ground level!  

So far, Prague is beautiful and fascinating.  We are going to the castle tomorrow and off to the healing waters later in the week!  

We Three ..... back again!

Seems like just yesterday I started this blog to document a great adventure.....Cait, Mom and I doing Europe.  Since that trip 5 years ago, this blog has followed me to amazing places, memorable trips with such fun travel companions.

But.....this time.....we are back to the orginal three.  Cait, Mom and I are off to Prague...after a week, Cait will be flying home and Mom and I will be heading south to explore Italy a bit before heading home a week later.

I'm so excited about this trip.  Funnily, Prague seems like a visit to my roots.  Though I don't really have any Czech blood in me, a girl doesn't grow up in a town full of Dornaks, Tymraks and Vyvleckas without feeling a strong bond to the Bohemian heritage.  It was normal to have handmade kolaches in our school cafeteria, Mrs. Netardus' pecan roll was always the prize treat from the Catholic picnic auction and I actually know that a sausage kolache is NOT a kolache at all, but instead a klobasnek!  So....visiting Prague is sort of like visiting "home".  Cait loves Prague as well.....the street food and the beer are calling her name.  And Mom....well, though excited to see a city that she hasn't been to before, quite honestly, is just happy to be going.......going anywhere!  This excitement is evidenced by the fact that Cait and I had a hard time keeping up with her as we headed through the airport...I think she is hoping to get "there" first!

So we're here...checked in and waiting patiently.  Cait is busy downloading audio books, but Mom and I took the time for the obligatory pre-boarding selfie!

 We connect in Helsinki.....maybe we'll meet an interesting Finn!

Can't wait to see Prague with these two!

Country Estates, Castles, City Streets, but No Queen

We made plans to leave Belfast early in the morning but truly did not get to spend enough time in this city.  You hear so little about the IRA and the conflicts in Northern Ireland anymore, everywhere there are reminders of a small country in a big state of unrest.

Graffiti like this was all over the city, a reminder of a part of the world's history that would be fascinating to spend some time discovering.....but that will be another trip and another story.

We pulled onto a ferry taking us to Scotland just after seven, and a after a smooth ride, a great breakfast and several games of battle between Alexa and I, we arrived in Scotland.  We knew we wouldn't have a lot of time to explore everything we wanted in Scotland, but took the opportunity to spend some time in the gorgeous country side.  Everything is so lush and green, the people friendly and of course, there were plenty of castles to spot along the way.  

It was a long but wonderful day on the road.  We started telling Alexa stories that would make the sights we were to see in London come alive a bit more and she grew more and more excited about the days ahead. We also played games like pictionary and charades!!!  Yes! In the car.  We laughed and giggled and sang......basically drove Rick crazy, which was a special treat for me!

 We had booked our London hotel through Priceline and actually were a bit worried,  Though highly rated, it seemed awfully cheap by London standards.  It was a little south of the city center, but that was going to work well for our plans.....and when we arrived, we were in for quite a surprise!  The Selsdon Golf Resort and Spa is an old manor estate built in the 1700s....and it might as well have been a castle to this group of Texans.  The  golf course was built in 1920 and the fact that the rooms hadn't been remodeled (other than really nice bedding) didn't bother us at all.  It was a gorgeous spot...and the surprises just kept on coming when the first morning we discovered that full breakfast was included in the price....and it was delicious!

Sometimes, we just seem too lucky for it to be fair!

After our breakfast yesterday, we headed out on our first day of only two in London.  We've found that the best way to get an overview of London for first time visitors is to do a double decker bus excursion.  That way they get a little taste of a lot that the city has to offer and can make plans to see what really interests them on their next trip.  Since this was both Rick and Alexa's first time in the city, that's exactly what we did.

Alexa especially loved the Tower, the crown jewels and Buckingham Palace, of course.....but was amazingly attentive to almost everything we saw and did.

As fascinated as she was with the changing of the guards, it really struck me this time as well.  The guards just seemed so young, and the fact that, more than just guards, these were young men in military service, was just hard to grasp.  Just look at these two faces!

The funny thing, the one on the left, cutting his eyes, just couldn't keep his attention off a group that were just inside his periphery.  It was a group of cute young girls, and his distraction with them just further illustrated that this was just a typical young man, with big boots to fill.

After exploring all day,  we had tickets to see Charlie and the Chocolate factory in the theatre district last night.  Alexa loved her first taste of theatre when we were in NYC earlier this summer and so We credited the fact that she was with us as our reason for fitting in a show....but the fact was we all enjoyed it. It seems like theatre just never fails to exceed all expectations! And a historic London theatre....even better!

After a long day that included a train ride, a ride in  a real London taxi, off and on several double decker buses, and a boat ride on the Thames, we were all tired.  But not too tired to spend a little extra time taking the "tube" back to our train station.  By the time we got to our hotel after midnight, none of us needed any encouragement to go to bed.

Today started just as early....and we planned just two stops, but both were going to take some time.

Our first stop was Hampton Court.  I had been telling Alexa stories about Henry VIII and his 6 wives, and seeing where they lived was exciting to her.  They do such a great job there of bringing this historical castle to life....we even got royal robes to wear over our clothes!  Rick opted out of that activity.....guess the royal purple robe clashed with his black windsuit....but that was okay, we three girls loved wearing our robes through the 15th century halls.  

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I even got a special "prohibited" photo of Alexa and Mom saying a prayer in the Chapel at Hampton Court.  It was well worth the stern look I got from the Chapel docent!

After we left, Alexa wanted to know again the names and fates of Henry's 6 wives.  I was lucky Cait had taught me a little rhyme about them, "Divorced, beheaded died:  Divorced, beheaded, survived" which helps me keep them straight.  Funny, but I think she especially liked hearing about Ann of Cleves, who I like to suppose only kept her head because she was a good card player!  We each add our own spin to history I guess!

After Hampton, we headed to Windsor to see if we might catch the Queen there for a cup of tea. Unfortunately she was off in Balmoral....I guess no one let her know we were coming.  We did the castle tour, Alexa taking special note of where Henry VIII is buried there.  She loved that despite his orders to be buried in a large ornate crypt guarded by a stone stallion, he is actually buried in a previously unmarked (and now marked only by an understated brass plate) grave under the floor of the chapel.  Goes to show if you want to be loved after you are dead, you better be nice before you die!  Probably didn't help that he had so mistreated the mothers of his two daughters who got to make decisions about his burial.

Compare that to some of the other crypts in St. Geoge's Chapel and you just might be a little nicer to your children AND to their "other" parent!

As a special treat for Mom, we planned our day to end with the Evensong Service in the Chapel at Windsor.  The chapel was beautiful lit up for the service.  It was surreal to be in that centuries old place, surrounded by all of the history and history makers inside those walls, listening to the angelic voices of the Chapel Choir and to do so, sitting beside my Mom.  It was planned as a treat for her, but I found myself lost in prayerful gratitude for another opportunity to experience the wonders of the world with people I love.

After dropping Mom and Rick at the hotel, Alexa and I had one more errand to run.  We were off in search of "strumpets".  Which means something entirely different to the rest of the world, but to Alexa it is synonymous with crumpets!  As much as I know I should correct her....it is just too stinking cute for her to talk about her love of strumpets, so for now, they will be strumpets to us. Happily, we found them....10 packages of them...for her to take home, freeze and take out now and then to remind her of our trip to Ireland and the UK.  Maybe she'll even share some with me when I'm around and we can remember together.

Tomorrow we head home.....we are ready, we are tired, we are nearly completely sated.  But we will plan another trip soon.  There is too much of a big wonderful world out there not to grab every chance to see and explore.  

Gift of Blarney, Luck of the Irish, Wily Leprechauns and Wonders of Nature

Well, just as planned we were off early this morning.  Our night ran so late last night at Dublin Castle that we didn't have a chance to build our Leprechaun trap as we had planned, so in addition to our planned activities, we now had to get the rest of our supplies for our trap.

Alexa has been looking for leprechauns since we arrived in Ireland.  We haven't seen any....not even one!  She was thinking maybe they didn't exist, but then we did some research on the internet.  The sites I found for her to check out explain that Leprechauns are wily, clever creatures.  They are very difficult to spot......the only real hope you have to see one is to catch one in a trap.  And if you are lucky enough to catch one, well, then they will grant you three wishes if you will let them go.  The website cautions you to be very careful about your wishes, because those tricky little fellows will get you to make wishes that end up getting you into trouble instead of making you happy.  Luckily there are directions online about how to build a trap......so our first stop this morning was to get trap making supplies!

We ended up in the little town of Terenure, looking for a store that might sell some of the stuff we needed........and not only did we find a great little dry goods store, but the town itself was out of a "Visit Ireland" guidebook.  The people were lovely and there was a beautiful church that we stopped and explored.  All of the parish priests were buried in the small graveyard at the  church, and on their headstone was their birthdate, date of death, and number of years in service to the parish.  One of the priests, who died in 1846 at the age of 96, had served the church for 82 years!  Amazing!  Alexa and I had a great time checking out that little cemetery.

Back on the road after our stop, we wind our way down the to the southern most part of Ireland, just south of Cork, to the Blarney Castle, to kiss the Blarney Stone.  Legend says that anyone who kisses the Blarney stone will be given the gift of gab........can't imagine any of the three of us needing that, but what the heck!  

The castle was built in the 1500s....and is no longer a working castle, but simply a landmark.  To get to the magic stone, you have to walk just about a mile, along a pathway lined with trees dressed in "leg warmers".

We never could find out why they were all covered with these "sweaters", but it was interesting.

When we got to the castle, we explored the dungeon a bit before heading up the 40 meters to the bottom floor of the old castle.  Arriving there we followed the signs to the Blarney Stone and soon found that the only way up was a narrow stone circular staircase, a staircase that had been there for 500+ years.  It was damp and slippery and so narrow there was no rail, just a big rope in the middle to grab hold of in order to try to stay balanced!

111 steps to the top of the castle...each one seemingly more slippery than the last....but Mom made it and I didn't fall down....quite the accomplishment.  Relieved when we got to the top, until we saw that we had to walk around to the other side of castle on a 2 ft walkway.....courtyard 200 feet below on  inside and exterior wall and 250ish feet to the ground on the outside!

But we made it....and we....ALL THREE OF US....laid flat on our backs, trusted the handsome young man working for tips to hold onto us, scooted out over the edge of the walkway, leaned our heads back and kissed that old dirty rock!

Mom was nice enough to take my camera and photograph me while I was kissing the stone.  Too bad that kissing the stone didn't give the "gift of timing" because then Mom might have actually gotten me kissing the stone!

Regardless, it was a great afternoon.  Worth every minute of the drive and every step to the top!

We headed north, planning to go through Waterford and look at buying some pieces before we returned to Dublin.   We just had to stop and get some fuel before we got there.

Any of you who have followed my blog before, know I had some trouble with the whole gas/diesel issue in France.  So we double checked what went into the car.....yep....diesel.  Saw a small station that sold "gazole", Irish for diesel.  Pulled in and the two pumps both had only one handle on each side.  Both on my side were green.  Diesel...right?   Just to be sure, I checked to see if the nozzle would fit without any rigging like I had to do in France.  Yep..fit just fine.  So I filled up and we were on the way again!

About 10 miles down the road the car started sputtering.  Then it died.  Started it back up, drove about 30 feet....dead again!  OMG...could I have really done such a dumb thing again?  Yes....not only could I ...but I did.  Luckily we were near a small little store.  I went in and embarrassed by my stupidity,  ask for some help.  The two men in the store came to check and be sure that I had actually put in gas and not diesel.  They both sniffed of the tank....and agreed....yep...this woman is dumb!!!!

About that time, a friend of theirs came up on a big tractor.  He checked out just how dumb the American woman was as well.  They were so friendly and helpful though...even though they must have had a good laugh at me.  Mom and Alexa both needed to go to the restroom, so they allowed them to go into the house attached to the store.  They then had the tractor guy call a mechanic in the nearest town....who drove out, drained the gas out of the car....and gave us some diesel to go on our way!  The only good thing about the situation were the four new friends we met...charming and gracious and funny.  No one can have enough friends like that, no matter the circumstance of their meeting!

By the time we got back on the road, we didn't have time to shop in Waterford, but we did drive along the beautiful coastline there and enjoyed every minute of....feeling lucky to not be stranded on the road somewhere with no one to help us.

We didn't get back to the hotel until almost 10...and we still had a Leprechaun trap to build and set!  

We headed to bed, finally, with big hopes of catching us a little buddy before we left the next morning.  We, of course, planned on practicing the catch and release style of leprechaun hunting!

Well, up early to get ready to head to Northern Ireland, Alexa and I went out to check out our trap.

Some little wily leprechauns had torn up our trap, spread the fake gold we had used as bait all over the ground, and lefta us a snippy little note about not being tricky enough to catch a leprechaun!  They did, however, leave Alexa a cute little stuffed leprechaun.  We tried to follow there footprints that they left after walking through the glitter we had put out.....followed them to holes in some nearby trees.....but just couldn't find us a leprechaun.  Probably for the best, we had heard that after you catch one, they will grant you three wishes to let them go....but you have to be VERY careful because they are tricky about how they grant wishes.  No telling what we would have ended up with!

Today we drove to Northern Ireland.  Before going to Belfast, we drove all the way to the very northern tip of the island, to a place called Giant's Causeway.  WOW!  This is one of the most amazing rock formations I've ever seen.  They are almost all perfect hexagon shaped columns that rise up out of the surf and the coast line.  It was cold and windy and magical.  We had to walk over a mile to get down to the formations, and then did some climbing to get on top of them....but it was so worth it.  We had an amazing day exploring the natural wonder.

We are now in Belfast.....near the port.  There are tributes to the IRA everywhere as we are evidently in the middle of where most of the conflict happened decades ago.  More about this on the next post after I have a chance to get out and explore.

I can't close this post out without a quick note about Mom, especially since I was just talking about natural wonders!  The past two days are just perfect examples of what kind of traveler she is.  Scared to death of heights...... she climbed the steep stairs and inched her way around the top of the Blarney Castle.  Once up there, she was not about to miss out on the opportunity to do a thing, so she laid down, leaned back and kissed that danged rock!  And EVERYONE knows she doesn't even NEED the gift of gab!  She never even raised an eyebrow about me putting gas into the diesel engine....just fell right in, making the best of the situation, even though she really wanted to go to the Waterford Crystal Store.  Today, cold natured and again, afraid of heights....she climbed up to the top of the formations at Giants Causeway.  Kept us with us step for step!  All at 79 years young!  I still, more than ever, want to be her when I grow up!  She is the best travel buddy in the world!

And now....she is snoozing away....so if I want to keep up with her tomorrow, I better get some sleep myself!