We planned for a walking tour to and of the Prague Castle, which is one of the largest castle complexes in Europe, the castle that the used to model the Beast's castle in the disney movie and is located across the river and atop a hill about a mile from Old Town, where we are staying. When we arrived at the meeting place to start our tour, it was still misting lightly, but we were still ready to stay the course. We met Pavel , our guide, and just about the time we were ready to head out, the rain stopped. Perfect!
Our group was an interesting mix of some Kiwis, a couple of girls from the UK, an Indian kid from Australia and several Americans. One American immediately stood out....first to answer hypothetical questions, quick to ask silly questions, louder than anyone else....and no...it wasn't me! Actually it was a Dave Coulier clone, who latched onto us (well, to Cait), and ended up being a rather interesting character. Once you got by the loud, brash, ugly American image, he was just a kid who wanted to enjoy his adventure! What an adventure he was on....he had volunteered with the Israeli military, and then travelled to Germany, Poland and now the Czech Republic. He was gleaning all kinds of travel advice from Cait and we finally decided he was okay.....well, okay for a kid with no filter!
Pavel was well educated and funny, the perfect combination for a tour guide. He didn't mind sharing his political beliefs and seemed to relish the fact that Czechs are free to express political opinions these days. Funnily, the sitting president was barely elected, and lost the vote in the Prague district by a landslide. So Pavel pointed out that he rules a country from a capitol surrounded by people who hate him. Which might be the reason for his reputation to be quite the drinker. With my history with men of Czech heritage, I wonder just how much a Czech man must drink in order to be considered to have a "problem" with alcohol? The alcohol isn't really the reason for the dislike of this president...it seems the Czechs are pretty much fine with that (other than the time he almost threw up in the Crown Jewels during a display ceremony because he had been celebrating a Russian victory with his Russian friends).....it is actually his association with the Russians that is such a concern to the people. Pavel's tour was littered with political commentary from start to finish....which actually made it all the more interesting.
The tour started with the Cathedral at the Palace....amazing! Though the Czech Republic is now over 70% atheist and agnostic (apparently a result of the long communist control), the cathedral is one of the most gorgeous we've ever seen. Built in the 14th century, the Gothic style exterior with garoyles on every angle that double as water drainspouts! The beauty is obvious, but to me, one of the most interesting parts of the exterior was the engineering capabilities of the the architects back then to use decorative gargoyles as drain spouts....incredible!
The interior was just as breathtaking. Stained glass from the gothic, the rennaisance AND the baroque period. The artistry was incredible, but the stories in the works were equally beautiful. Though not gilded like the cathedrals in Spain, this was no less magnificent.
Also part of the Palace grounds was the presidential offices, and the president happened to be in this afternoon. That was not all that amazing.....but what was amazing was the security that surrounded him. ONE GUY....an old guy......not too tough looking.......guarding the door to the presidential office.
So after a 4 hour walking tour of everything presidential and royal at the palace, it was time for sustenance. Cait and I had been wanting to go to the local monastery where the monks were famous for awarding winning beer. It was a short tram ride from the palace so we decided tonight was the night.
We had a little trouble finding it. The monastery was easy, the restaurant a little hidden. (Should have been an omen) We sat outside where they had heaters and blankets and fur covered seats. It seemed so Behemian to do that! We ordered a couple of sampler plates of spreads and meats and one plate of goulash....to go with our beers. The beers came with a basket of salty bread. Hmmm....most likely to make us want more beer? The beer was great. The head perfect, a nice amber ale...smooth and cold and really hit the spot. Then they brought our food. Usually where we get really happy.
The goulash was tepid and sort of bland. The cold meats were...cold....and one of them was bacon....nearly raw...cold...and unappetizing....the sausage looked like a giant homemade hotdog that hadn't been cooked thoroughly..........but all of that was NOTHING compared to the "spreads". They were, without a doubt the most vile tasting assortment of foods any of the three of us have ever had! Its not like we are picky....or have pedestrian tastes....we are game to try new things and always indulge in local cuisine. China, South America, Ireland, Morroco.....we're good. Even things we didn't want again, we never felt were vile . But these spreads tasted like something someone scraped out of the bottom of an OLD trash can. There wasn't enough beer to wash away the taste! So...a first for the blog.....on our adventures we've survived pig hips and their marrow, seagull, snake, frog, guinea pig, testicles.....just about anything......but those monks finally served us a meal we couldn't eat!
As evidenced in the before and after photos...the only thing we ate was the goulash.....and only that to wipe out the taste of the spreads! Moral of the story....monks make good beer......but never go to their superbowl party...the food will suck!
Tomorrow we are doing a walking tour of the city. Hopefully just as good as today's tour...with better food!
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