We had heard that this was going to be a nice trip through the Czech countryside and there were a couple of churches we wanted to see in the village, so it seemed like a good day to make relatively short.
The countryside was littered with small, neat little homesteads, often built alongside small lakes. Even in the somewhat dreary month of February, it was very picturesque.
When we got to Kutna Hora, we decided to walk the mile or so to the Bone Church, which was our first stop. Now.....I know Bone Church sounds kind of creepy....well, rest assured it WAS!!!!
In the 13th Century, the Priest at the small village church in Kutna Hora took a pilgrimage to Palestine, where he pocketed a handful and soil and brought it back with him. He, thinking he was doing a good thing, sprinkled the soil over the grounds of the church. As word of this spread, people began to consider the grounds to be hallowed ground and paid great amounts to be buried there. In fact, they were willing to pay so much that it became almost like a bidding.....you could be buried there until you were forgotten enough that a higher bidder could buy your spot...at which time you were uprooted and your bones places in the cellar of the church! Consequently, the cemetery surrounding this 13th century church is filled with expensive and modern gravestones....sort of surreal looking.....but not nearly the strangest thing we were going to see!
So after a couple of centuries of digging up bones....it is said (Czech legend again!) that a mad Monk decided to start making things out of the bones. As he made things, he displayed them in the Church. Well, now.....as you walk in....you are immediately surrounded by bones....all kinds of human bones...turned into valances and wall hangings.....and sometimes just stuck on a ledge!
There is even a giant chandelier in the center of the church foyer made of bones...and is said to have at least one of every bone found in the human body in the chandelier!
All four corners of the church are filled with giant mounds of stacked bones, floor to ceiling. They were created by a blind monk and we were told (again with the legends....LOVE THEM) that after finishing the last mound, the monk miraculously got his sight back...because God was so pleased with his work! Now, people go and toss money into the mound of bones....evidently trying to make it in an eye or nose socket. Kind of like a morbid carnival game! We....of course...found it fascinating!
It is believed that there are the bones from over 40,000 people in this church!
Well, after a trip to the church of bones....we headed to the center of the village where the 17th century cathedral there is known for its beauty. Of course it is....it is called Santa Barbara! It was gorgeous....and we found out that St. Barbara is the patron saint of miners. Kutna Hora was the hub of medieval silver mining. We really just went to see the cathedral because of the name, but ended up really enjoying the architecture and the history.
We walked down from the hill where the cathedral was and back into the town. The view down on the town was great and the little streets, still working streets today, were tiny and seemd out of movie.
We had met a man at the bone church that recommended a friend's restaurant for a late lunch...and though mom was still not quite up to par, we decided to stop anyway. I know you have heard this from me before....but....BEST MEAL EVER!!!!! We had a starter that was described as "mixed meat on fried bread". Well, it was actually a spicy mix of onions, peppers and we think...chicken...with lots of paprika, served on a crispy piece of multigrain bread that had been grilled...all topped with farmer's cheese. It was amazing.
Then we had spicy grilled chicken wings, potato slices and grilled corn! All of which were much better than we ever expected.
Now...the best part...and that is a high bar in this meal...were the sweet dumplings. They were light, filled with blueberries and topped with slightly sweetened cream and more berries. I can't even begin to describe how good they were. We barely caught ourselves to get a picture before we finished them off!
Now...in describing how much "WE" liked our meal...I took some liberty. Mom was still feeling a bit under the weather and since we had a train trip home, she didn't want to press it. So....while Cait and I were the we that got to eat the excellent food....mom got soup!
Poor Mom!
Happy to report she is feeling better...and we are planning to try to get off early to Carls Bad tomorrow!
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