Saturday, February 13, 2016

Trains, Busses, and Taking a "Bite" out of KarLovy Vary

So today was our long day trip to see the healing waters of Karlovy Vary, or Carls Bad, or Charles Bath.....however you want to say it, it is a picturesque resort town in the Bohemian region of the Czech Republic that is renowned for the hot springs that have been drawing people for centuries.

We got up early, picked up our take away breakfast that the  hotel made us, and were at the train station for our 7 am departure.  The train was smooth and roomy and scenic.  It was a 3 1/2 hour ride, but the ride alone was a "tour" so we loved it.  We went through milling towns and climbed up into the mountains.  As we nears Karlovy Vary, we could see snow on the tops of the hills all around.




There hasn't been real snow in the area for over two years (though we got a dusting today) and that has saddened the skiers in the area....but the biggest draw and economic base of the area are the hot springs.  While there are spas and baths where you can languish in the hot water, the unusual thing about these healing waters is that to get their real benefit you drink them!  We were anxious to try that out.

So, our train pulled in and we bundled up and headed out.  The train station was several miles from the town center, so we were discussing where we needed to get a taxi, when Mom stumbled over an uneven drain in the sidewalk and fell.  Now.....while you might be concerned about any 80 year old stumbling and falling on a hard rock surface.....my first reaction was that she was going to catch her balance.  When it was evident that no, there was NOT going to be any balance catching, I then thought. "oh, I hope she doesn't injure her wrist when she catches her fall.  Well, never fear!  It was cold, so she had her hands in her pocket and could not get them out in time to catch her fall.......so....she caught her fall with her face!





Jumped right up like nothing happened....but when she turned to look at us, she had busted her chin, and both her lips.  Her bottom lip was cut almost clean through!  Cait and I were concerned and hovering.....but she kept insisting that she was fine....and wasn't about to let a bloody face slow her down.  Besides.....we were on our way to the healing waters!

Our new Czech friend Jitka showed us around town, explaining the history and the waters.  She was very funny....though didn't mean to be.  She struggled a bit with English at times but was full of facts.  She used to be the Mayor's liason to foreign visitors....so has hosted everyong from the leaders of Iraq, to Russian dignitaries, to Gregory Peck!  She was very no nonsense......but the funniest thing was...if she was stuck for something to say....she had a few go to statements that she made repeatedly.....sort of like Marc Rubio at the debate the other night!




The city was like something out of a movie, the streets and buildings unchanged for centuries.








Everyone in town is carrying around these strange little cups.....sort of like an adult sippy cup,but made of porcelain....not to be left out, we bought cups of our own!  The people who live here, and evidently thousands who travel here regularly, believe that the springs have healing powers, so they walk the colonades, and drink from the springs, one hour before each meal three times a day.  After some thought, I think maybe just the water and the regular walks everyday could be the "magic" behind the healing power, but I drank anyway!






Jitka was quite impressed with the celebrities and royalty that have come to Karlovy Vary for centuries.  Since medieval times, emporers have been coming from as far as the holy land ....and in modern times, it is still a favorite of Middle Easterners and the Russians.  The Russian is so strong that there is a huge Russian Orthodox Church and a statue of Karl Marx in prominent display.




After spending the day with Jitka, we were going to grab some dinner and head back to Prague.  She was very alarmed that we had taken the train.  She said there was an excellent bus that was much faster and much nicer.   So, we opted to take her advice and headed to the bus station.  Near the station was a great little spot to eat, and since we had not eaten since breakfast, we were fairly hungry.  Lucky for us, we found another great spot.  Cait had a giant pork chop covered with bacon and an egg and fried onion bits.  Mom and I had the grill trout.  All....amazing!




After dinner we went to the bus stop, anxious to see this "wonderbus" that Jitna was so proud of.  We, as evidenced by the photos below, it did not live up to the billing.  Instead of our own private compartment, where we controlled the noise and the temperature, we crowded onto a perfectly normal bus......Mom and Cait behind me and me with a guy who smoked a pack of cigarettes and evidently spread the ashes all over himself before getting on the bus.  He then made himself comfy on 2/3 of our allotted seating space and went to sleep.  Thank goodness Jitna was right about the time....the trip was only 2 hours of misery instead of 3.5!




Exhausted, we got back to the hotel just in time to pack to leave tomorrow.  Cait is heading home and Mom and I will go south through Vienna, Venice and Florence, to Rome!  Pasta and gelato, here we come!

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